I thought long and hard about where we'd stop to take a breath, and there were a few places that seemed like they'd be a good spot, but there was only one that really stood out as a spot I'd love to stay for a week. You see, as some of you may know, I can get a bit fidgety... I like to move around... I can't even stay sitting down at work for very long without having to go and check on tapes or just shoot the breeze with the developers...
Its the same when I'm on holiday. I'm *not* a sit on the beach for two weeks kind of guy. I'd go a bit mad. But... I knew we'd need a break from being the road warriors so we had to find a nice place that could keep us happy, and keep my feet from wanting to wander for a good restful week.
The town we chose is Ouray. We're at about 8000 feet in the western rockies, the lush part, the exciting part, the part full of history, old mines, huge mountains, tall tales, big steaks, places with the name "gultch" in them and a WHOLE lot of jeeps.
We made our way here from Canon City via the Royal Gorge. I've no idea why its called Royal, but I've now got a good idea why the Gorge part is in there. Its home to the highest suspension bridge in the world, the gorge is about 400 meters deep, a cleft in the world that pops out of nowhere: rolling hills then BAM. STOP. BIG GORGE. The bridge wasn't really made for any other purpose than to draw visitors, and once there it does its best to scare the crap out of them. Its very rickety, the supports are all steel but seemingly thats where the money ran out as the span is comprised of old planks of wood, with a handy couple inch gap between each one, just so you can experience that vertiguous look down 400 meteres drop with each freaking step. Thank you! The girls liked it though as there was also a petting zoo and a merry-go-round. (It is actually worth a visit, the bridge is quite spectacular when you're not on it and praying...)
Then on we went to our Ouray. The countryside changes as we go, becoming more lush and green as we work our way west and though the rain shadow that those westerly mountains create. The West Rockies is a far different beast from the east. It probably isn't any higher, or steeper, but maybe it just feels that way... Ouray is surrounded my huge cliffs or red, grey and bleeding yellows on all sides. The sun doesn't seem to rise above them until well into the afternoon, and often sets even before then... Its beautiful - like no town I've ever been to. Some houses feel cosy, they're surrounded by trees or bush, this whole town feels cozy, no matter where you walk you're surrounded by visible nature, you really have to crane your neck to see above the mountains... its weird for a boy from Canberra...
Everyone in Ouray is four wheel driving mad. I can see why, there's literally hundreds of old mine trails, wagon trails, old toll roads cut into the sides of cliffs, ghost town waiting to be explored, high and distant meadows to be visited... and all only a few short miles off the highway... a few short possibly terrifying m
iles. Most of the trails are fine, we've even done some up into the mountains around Ouray and the scenery is breathtaking: rolling meadows backed by sharp red rock walls punching up to 14000 feet, blues and yellows, strange grasshoppers making even stranger noises, crystal clear streams meandering their way through the basin, tumbling cold and down toward the valley floor in hundreds of waterfall steps...
But its not all fun and games. There're roads out there with a reputation... they talk about them in hushed and reverant tones in the saloon... road with names like Poughkeepsie Gultch... Imogene and the worst... Black Bear Pass. They dont sound like much, but the locals wont mention their names without making the sign of the cross... their paths on the map snake across topographic lines so close they're almost a sea of black... "WARNING EXPERIENCED 4 WHEEL DRIVERS ONLY" shout the signs at their starting points. So of course every two bit 4x4 hack from out of town tries them and ends up paying to have their cars pulled out, driven down by someone else... or worse...
You can see these roads from certain viewpoints, looking like some trick of the light, or april fools, cut into cliffs, or hanging from mountains so steep you feel giddy just looking at them. I'll leave them for next time I'm here...
Besides, we're far too busy taking in the sights that dont risk life and limb... like playing in the local hot springs, visiting the toy shops, reading books or visiting ghost towns like Animas Forks or taking photos of wild flowers and abandoned mines in the high country on one of the more moderate roads... I actually dont mind the off road stuff... I could get into this. I just have to find several 14000 feet mountains to explore back in Australia... By the way - theres no good hot dogs in town so I made my own: Standard hot dog buns, Ball Park all beef Franks *grilled*! Cook one cob of white corn and cut off kernals, save. Pan fry one medium onion and 1/2 green pepper finely chopped until soft, add cooked corn kernals, 1/2 cup shredded monterey jack cheese and 2 finely chopped fresh roma tomatoes (chilled), add a little mexican hot sauce and dollop all over the top of your grilled frank in its warmed bun. Try to serve while onions, pepper and corn are hot and tomato is chilled... Very nice - even if I do say so myself. 